More hills, remoter still

 

6 December – I have come down from Mondulkiri hills and am updating my travel log on other hills, actually the remotest you could find in this country. I am in the dusty town of Ban Lung, nothing but a crossroads of two wide dirt streets with little traffic but plenty of dust. You know when a vehicle drives by because a cloud of red powder rises and gradually settles after passing through your nostrils, getting into your eyes and smearing your clothes.

ImageThe journey up to here was tiresome: 6 hours by bus with two short stops, plus a “technical” break for the passengers who needed it to get down the bus and find a secluded spot on the road side to relieve themselves. The journey was not comfortable due to the road condition, that in spite of not being utterly disastrous, didn’t allow a smooth progress. At least today’s driver showed more consideration to us passengers by driving at the speed that the road condition permits, unlike yesterday’s crazy bloke who sped all the way down to Snoul and made me feel as if in a tumble dryer. In Snoul I got off the bus and I would have liked to while away the waiting reading my book, had not a French lady got hold of me and started a drawn-out conversation without the possibility of an escape.

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In transit through Thailand

Image8 December – It is now my last stop before the flight back. I'm in Trat, Thailand, and about to get on the bus to Bangkok airport. Getting here from Sihanoukville was a jolly good adventure.To be true, Sihanoukville must have a spell about it, because thinking back reaching it from Kampot was a very bizarre trip, too. For the sake of symmetry, then, it is fair enough for the trip out to have gone as it went.

But I'll proceed in chronological order and relate the trip into Sihanoukville first. That happened in a share taxi leaving from Kampot. In my travel experience I have never, ever seen a car loaded like that. We were three adult passengers on the back seat, in addition to a child packed I don't know where, but the driver apologetically warned us that the child was only paying half fare, and he would have to stuff in another adult, who blocked everyone's movements when she squeezed in.

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On the coast: Kep

 

ImageI don’t really see what could possibly make a foreigner, such as that English guy Hugh, decide to settle down in Cambodia. There must certainly be very good reasons, but I can’t find anything really attractive, now that I'm looking at the lower-middle class block buildings in the district where my hotel is located and am transposing the unpleasant humid and sticky sensation caused by the weather - now at its best - to life in general in this country.

I have observed a total lack of taste in would-be posh clothing, furniture and decoration that do not convey a sense of refinement from the people and their culture. I am certainly to blame for not appreciating it, so culturally distant as I am from this ancient civilization whose language is one of Asia's oldest and whose alphabet is derived from an early south Indian one. I am struck by sheer amazement when I learn of these ancient and strong influences between far apart world regions; so remote from where I live that I tend to make an indistinct bunch of them all.

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In the capital, a different dimension

Image10 December - I have got to Phnom Penh after the longest bus ride that lasted well 12 consecutive hours, that is to say all day yesterday, on roads that were the horrible dirt Ratanakiri ones at first and became more acceptable as I went, even if they started to be beset by traffic near the capital. We risked a collision with stray domestic animals more than once. They don’t feel the danger and blowing the honk repeatedly doesn’t help much. It’s not easy either to anticipate their path and sharp braking was sometimes inevitable to avoid a head-on crash with a carefree strolling cow. I admired a fascinating sunset on rice fields near the city, this time with rosy and purple, then red hues.

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Bokor jungle

14 December - I can assert I’ve had one of the most tiring days as far as transports are concerned today. I am extremely disturbed after the day-long excursion to Bokor national park, now that I’m about to have dinner. A shower partially restored me, but I shall need a good night’s sleep to finish the job.

First of all I must observe that the pretty guest-house where I’m staying is the ideal place to perk up and looks like Eden’s garden with its beautiful trees and plenty of hammocks stretched between poles. This nice sensation is so much stronger, after coming from that Kep rat hole without daytime electricity, or running water from the mains (but from a reservoir), or a basin in the bathroom (but a tap in the wall that flowed on the floor). A place you would want to stay in for as little time as possible.

ImageI would have liked to give the landlord a piece of my mind, but I didn't have the time. In fact, I had bought a ticket to Kampot for 11.30, but the bus came along one hour ahead of time. So I went fuming to the bloke who'd sold me the ticket and claimed a refund. I called him an unserious seller, without being rude, but in a cold detached tone, so exasperated I was from various circumstances. I then found a lift on a motorbike that drove me along the 24 km in one hour's time.

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