Hong Kong visits

It was a jittery night after the whole pot of Wulong tea I drank over a nice dinner at a Soho restaurant. Instead of lying in bed waiting for sleep to come – which I sensed wasn’t going to happen soon – I listened to the weekly show of The Archers and to another radio programme. Time passed pleasantly and eventually I fell into a slumber.

It’s Sunday today, my last full day here, and I’ve planned to explore some of Hong Kong’s streets by walking to Central, rather that take the tram. It’s quite a distance, but not at all an unpleasant walk.

This district is not as crowded as some Kowloon areas. There, I saw tiny shops and in such numbers, all so close to one another, that the absurd query came to my mind about how their respective owners could possibly thread their way to their workplace without getting lost and in the evening head back to the right n-th floor of their tenement block. It’s a stupid question, but maybe the same that you’d ask yourself observing close up an anthill with bustling insects, each knowing exactly where to go in what looks like a disorienting mess.

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A stressful departure

I am ready and willing to break out of the golden cage of Hong Kong and start with rough China. All my papers are in order to enter the mainland and start the Sichuan adventure. My 30-day visa was obtained in a flash and at reasonable expenditure compared to the now costly procedure in Italy that requires applicants to go through a service centre, which levies a hefty handling fee.

I leave home at 11: I have read that the journey to Shenzhen is a whizz, so I don’t need to make haste to get my flight at 4 pm. However, just as I’m buying an adaptor plug at an Indian shop, I get a completely different report. I must really thank the curious seller for enquiring into my travel plans and my extrovert disposition for the talk I got into. When the seller learns my flight is due to leave at 4, he looks at his watch and puts on a sceptical face.

“I doubt whether you’ll make it to the airport in time.”, he warns woefully. “You’ve got to take the train to Laowo first, and that takes one hour. Then you’ve got to clear immigration, and it’s always very busy: count no less that another hour. Lastly you’ve got the train to the airport and that’s no less than a further hour. It’s now already midday…”

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First tasting of the highlands in Kangding

Getting to Kangding was a trial of 10 and a half hours, as opposed to the stated 8 hour standard time. The bus was held up three times for long hours, with the rest of the traffic, because of massive roadworks. The last stop, that intervened when the bus had already picked up some speed and made me hope the delay could be partly offset, preceded tens of kilometres of a gigantic upheaval in the landscape, due to the building of a dam. What had looked like fairly idyllic landscape until then, was soon turned into havoc and destruction.

I expect the residents not to be very keen on the scheme, but they can’t have enjoyed the privilege to speak up. Soon the low lying areas will be flooded and with the completion of the project the only temporary advantage for them will disappear too as there won’t be any more detained vehicles to sell beverages and snacks to. But for the time being, at least, motor carts quickly rush to the traffic jam with burning logs on their back to sell grilled ears of corn.

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Chengdu, Sichuan's provincial capital city

The flight from Shenzhen to Chengdu takes about 2 hours, so I arrived at the hostel at about 8 pm where I got a dorm bed in a stuffy room for two nights. I was glad they served some food on the plane, because I hadn’t had lunch at all owing to my precipitous rush to the airport. At least the fight I was waging against time helped me repress the hunger cramps that were ravaging my stomach.

It was for dinner that I had my first encounter with Sichuan food, by fame the spiciest in China. I ordered a bowl of jiaozi in broth and they seemed rather tasteless at first. There were innocent-looking specks of chilli pepper floating on the broth, which tasted all right at first. As I went on sipping it, though, I started feeling a funny tingling sensation on my lips, like myriad microscopic worms writhing on the sensitive skin. The owner offered to change my broth when he saw me fish out the guilty bits, but I stayed determined to reach the end without cheating.

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The hot springs avoided gaffe

The weather looks like rain in Kangding this morning and I don’t know exactly how I’m going to spend my time here. I walk uninspired to the centre, to the meeting of the two streams, watch the housewives buy vegetables from the peasant women sitting on the pavement; the traffic clogging the high street, surges of water rushing downstream between the banks. All of a sudden I have a brainwave: I’ll walk out of town toward the hot springs.

The houses become rarefied and the town gives way to vegetable gardens next to the watercourse in the narrow valley bottom. I am well under way when I convince myself that going to the hot springs alone won’t be a real goal without the full experience of them. I’ll treat myself to a hot bath, too.

The snag is I haven’t brought a swimsuit or a towel and I’ll have to make do with what I have. However, when the attendant that is shadowing me from the entrance spots me trying to sneak into the big swimming-pool in my underwear, he says that is not possible. No other way than use the private rooms, then.

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