Sunday, 29 January 2012

A jet plane like the Orient Express

The nun was dressed in a light grey habit with white edges, and no overcoat; a mesh of greying hair showed from under her bonnet. On her feet she donned a pair of thick stockings and open sandals. It seemed rather light wear for a cold January night, but after all she was queuing in front of the check-in desk for a flight bound for Addis Ababa. It could have been her ordinary outfit, but she was more likely to be anticipating her arrival in the tropical climate, I thought. Her trolley was completely overloaded with parcels and suitcases, so she needed the assistance of two other sisters.

[Audiofile: my reading]

Monday, 30 January 2012

The Muger gorge

I don’t know how I managed exactly, but I made my way through Addis Ababa on public transport and emerged at the nondescript bus station from which the buses to the north leave. The place presents itself as a vast dusty stone-strewn area where large groups of people are standing under the fierce tropical midday sun, waiting for some bus.

If you ask where to queue up for your destination, you are sure to get a variety of answers with one common constant: it will never be where your informant is standing, but always a little further at an undefined distance. And in a vague direction, if you are to take a hint from the sweeping gesture drawn by the indicating hand. When again you go where you think you understood it is and ask for confirmation, the obliging answer comes along the same lines: a little further, somewhere there.

Tuesday, 31 January 2012

The Blue Nile gorge

Today is the day of the great move from Fiche to Bahir Dar, for a total of 364 km. Such a day could easily be dismissed as uneventful, with a good share of its daylight hours spent sitting on board a bus. However, the nature of this journey was the thing that brightened my day because it gave me a worthy introduction to the grandeur of the Ethiopian landscape.

I was up early – but not excessively so when compared to the time buses usually start in this country – and stood ready to catch the first bus that would come along from Addis. It was a rather comfortable vehicle that ran along a rather smooth road.

Monday, 30 January 2012

Debre Libanos

I was again adopted by a local immediately upon enquiring how to continue on my way from Chancho. This young bloke, who was waiting to start his lorry driving lesson, took the time not only to accompany me to the bus stop, but also to wait until a passing vehicle was available for me. The car was a magnificent 4-wheel drive, that with hindsight could easily win the prize for the most comfortable vehicle of my whole journey – with the only note that competition was next to non-existent. I was dropped about 60 km further at the junction of Debre Libanos, and asked the bus fare – no luxury surcharge.

I left my luggage at the grocery booth where the shopkeeper looked like an orthodox nun, sporting a huge cross over her blouse and a headgear reminiscent of the one worn by the clergy. In this way, I was ready to set off on the 4 kilometre asphalt road that descends to the monastery, the last tract of which was flanked by houses on both sides – possibly residents that make a living out of the flow of pilgrims visiting this major religious centre.

Tuesday, 31 January 2012

The Lake Tana monasteries

I have joined an excursion that will take me to see the Lake Tana monasteries. Several churches are in fact scattered along the lake shore, on the islands and, in particular, on the Zege peninsula – which our boatman is now steering our vessel to.

We visit two churches consisting of a similar rounded structure covered by a thatched conical roof. They have an outer zone reserved to the faithful and the choir, plus an inner circular gangway around the holy of holies. On the inner walls there are rich colourful paintings depicting the stories of the Bible and the Gospel, along with local legends that have multiplied during the centuries of isolation of the Ethiopian Church.

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